Travel Through a Sea of Clouds and Ethnic Diversity in the Mountains of Northern Laos
Provinces: Bokeo, Luang Namtha, Oudomxay, Phongsaly
People & Places: Laos upper northern region is known for its rugged mountains and diverse ethnic cultures. The region is home to more than thirty distinct ethnic groups, representing a colorful mix of Tibeto-Burman, Mon-Khmer, Yao-Mien and Tai-Lao origins: Handmade products made by ethnic minorities include mulberry bark and bamboo paper, Khmu basketry, and Hmong embroidery. The region’s colorful festivals include the Hmong New Year festival held in December/January.
Geography & Nature: Northern Laos is situated in the heart of Southeast Asia and makes up part of the famous “Golden Triangle, surrounded by China. Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam. Dominated by mountains that rise to over 2000 m, the north is the country’s most popular trekking area and offers a range of trails through green jungle to remote ethnic minority villages. The region’s broad expanse of forest habitats supports a range of globally and regionally endangered wildlife species including gibbons in the Nam Ha National Protected Area (NPA) and Bokeo Nature Reserve and tigers in Phau Den Din NPA, The north’s river network offers scenic journeys to secluded locations by longboat and challenging rapids for rafting and kayaking enthusiasts. Major rivers include the Mekong, Nam Ou, Nam Seuang, Nam Tha and Nam Fa.
Phongsaly Province
Farthest north in Laos is Phongsaly, which shares borders with Yunnan (China) and Dien Bien (Vietnam). Most of Phongsaly Province lies at a high altitude , resulting in a climate that is pleasant and refreshing. The capital, Phongsaly Town, is the highest city in Laos PDR at 1,400 meters above sea level. The population includes 28 different ethnic groups, of which the majority are Khmu, Phounoy, different Akha, Tai Lue and Hor; each with their own culture, traditions, costumes, and language. Unlike many other cities in Laos, Phongsaly Town was not destroyed in the American war. It features a remaining old quarter with Yunnanese wooden architecture, now rare to find in Yunnan itself. Most of the people living here belong to the Hor ethnic group, speaking Chinese. In the “Museum of Ethnic Groups in Phongsaly Province” you can admire the various local textiles, artifacts and handicrafts. The town itself is surrounded by rolling hills and is built into the side of Phou Fa Mountain (1,625 meters). The 45 minute hike up to its stupa on top offers spectacular views of the town from above and the mountains in the far distance.
Luang Namtha Province
Luang Namtha, literally “Royal Sugar Palm” or “Royal Green River”, is located in the north of the country. The Mekong River constitutes the northwest border of the province. From 1966 to 1976 it formed, together with Bokeo, the province of Houakhong. The province borders Yunnan, China to the north, Oudomxay Province to the east and southeast, Bokeo Province to the southwest, and Shan State, Myanmar to the northwest. Best known as a stopover point for trekking and Kayaking in the Nam Ha National Protected Area, This NPA consists mainly of evergreen forest and wildlife including wild cattle such as guar and banteng, Asian wild dogs, tigers, clouded leopards, bears, monkeys and gibbons and also muntjac, more information about Nam Ha www.namha-npa.org
Bokeo Province
Bokeo, meaning ‘gem mine’ is the smallest province in Laos, but one of the most ethnically diverse with over 30 recognized ethnic groups. The Lahu, a Tibeto-Burman speaking people common in northern Myanmar and Thailand are present in Bokeo in significant proportions. The province is located in the heart of the infamous “Golden Triangle” sharing borders with Luang Namtha as well as Myanmar and Thailand. Houai Xay, just across the border from the Thai city of Chiang Khong is a popular starting point for boat trips down the Mekong to Luang Prabang, a two-day journey south. Since ancient times Houai Xay, the provincial capital, has been the disembarkation point for travellers and traders from Yunnan Province in southern China on their way to Thailand. It is still a popular town for trading in Chinese goods. Vat Jom Khao Manilath, a teak Shan-style pagoda built in 1880 houses a stele that dates back to 1458. Fort Carnot, a remnant of the French colonial period is still standing but is closed to visitors, as today the fort is occupied by the Lao army. Just south of the main town it is possible to visit one of the main sapphire-mining areas in Indochina.
Oudomxay Province
Tranquil, beautiful and sometimes hidden in the clouds, Oudomxay is located in the heart of northern Laos and is one of the most accessible of the far northern provinces. It is also known as “The Northern city – sea of clouds with different hill tribes”. The rugged mountainous landscape has peaks up to 1,850 meters covered in varying forest types and wider fields. The province’s three main rivers are MeKhong, Nam Park, Nam Beng and Nam Kor. Oudomxay is mainly populated by the Khmu, Hmong and lowland Lao, with a total of 12 ethnic minorities, each with their own languages, cultural heritage and lifestyles. There are many tourist destinations in the province, including Chom Ong Cave “the land of caves”, Tadnamkat waterfall – Namkat Yolapa Resort, the Sacred Phachaosingkham temple, Nam Hin Lake, the 600 hundred year old Phouthat stupa in the center of the town, “the symbol of Oudomxay” and many more. Due to Oudomxay’s location, it is the most important traffic junction in Northern Laos and considered the Heart of Northern Laos. Pakbeng, located at the confluence of the Beng and Mekong Rivers is set on a scenic curve of the Mekong shrouded in green mountains.
Houaphanh Province
A mountainous province in the northeastern Laos, Houaphanh is enclosed by Vietnam to the north and south-east, Xieng Khouang to the south-west and Luang Prabang to the west. . While in the past it was difficult to navigate the province’s dramatic terrain, road upgrades now make travel easier and more enjoyable. Scenery along the roads into Houaphanh is stunning. Houaphanh Province is the birthplace of the Lao People’s Democratic Republic. However, it is one of the least visited provinces in the country and offers an authentic and varied experience for visitors. Enjoy a pristine natural environment of mountains, rivers, waterfalls and forests, visit the caves at Vieng Xay for a unique insight into the history of the country. Discover the mysterious Standing Stones of Hintang Archaeological Park, a collection of upright, rough stones about 2 meters high, some of which have tunnel-like caverns beneath them, which date back more than 2000 years.
Xieng Khouang Province
Located 400 kilometers northeast of Vientiane Capital, Xieng Khouang Province is on the mountainous Tran-ninh plateau. It is set at an altitude of more than 1,000 metres above sea level and enjoys mild temperatures for most of the year, although winters can be surprisingly cold. Kham District is a low-lying basin set at around 600 meters above sea level. The province sits at the crossroads of traffic from central Vietnam and northeast Thailand. Historically, these two powerful neighbors – Siam and Vietnam – have vied for control of its soil. The province shares borders with Houaphanh, Luang Prabang, Vientiane and Bolikhamxay provinces, as well as an international border with Vietnam. Xieng Khouang has a long and rich history and is home to numerous ethnic groups, including Thai Phuan, Hmong, Khmu, Erdu, Phong and Tai. Until briefly after World War II, the French used Xieng Khouang Town, present-day Muang Khoun town, as their provincial capital. A few ruinous colonial public buildings remain to this day, such as the governor’s residence, church and French school.
Luang Prabang Province
Situated in the centre of northern Laos, Luang Prabang is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its outstanding cultural, historic and architectural values and its harmonious relationship between the natural and built environment. In the 14th century, the King Fa Ngum founded the first Lao Kingdom, Lane Xang, here in Luang Prabang. Luang Prabang remained the capital of Lane Xang until 1565 when the capital was moved to Vientiane. It remained to serve as the country’s spiritual and religious centre. Visitors to Luang Prabang are charmed by the friendly atmosphere of this small town. The town itself offers several unique insights into the history of the region, through excellently preserved Buddhist temples, museum and a variety of Lao, Tai-Lue, Burmese, Chinese and Taui architecture.
Sayabouly Province
Sayabouly Province is situated in the northwest of Laos, sharing borders with Vientiane Province and Luang Prabang Province in the east, and Thailand in the west. This mountainous province has several peaks with altitudes of more than 1,000 meters. Travelling to this rugged landscape will reveal many beautiful mountains and flower gardens. The local people earn their living via agricultural products such as growing rice, cucumbers, cotton, cabbage, beans and sugarcane. Elephants continue to be used for loading and transporting heavy items. The province is also an important agricultural producer of rice, cotton, peanuts, sesame, maize and oranges.
The Malabri, one of the last remaining hunter-gatherer groups in Southeast Asia inhabit the forests in the province’s western region. Other ethnic groups located in the province include the Khmu, Tai Dam, Tai Lue, Htin, Phai, Kri, and Akha. In Muang Ngeun District are ethnic Tai Lue villages, which still build traditional houses constructed with characteristic high-sloping roofs. Muang Ngeun’s old Tai Lue style temples include Wat Ban Khon with its unique natural fiber murals and decorations, and Wat Si Boun Yeun with its charming view of the town.