Doi Ka Noi, a renowned Lao restaurant in Vientiane Capital known for its ever-changing seasonal menu and commitment to authentic Lao recipes, closed permanently on 13 May. 

The decision followed the unexpected passing of its chef and owner, Ponpailin ‘Noi’ Kaewduangdee, aged 45.

The closure came just months after Asia’s 50 Best named Doi Ka Noi, the 86th best restaurant on the continent – the first Lao restaurant ever to be featured. Noi had recently attended the glittering awards ceremony in Seoul, Korea.

A Lasting Legacy in Print

Before her passing, Chef Noi collaborated with her husband, British writer and photographer Mick Shippen, to publish a deeply personal cookbook, A Child of the Rice Fields: Recipes from Noi’s Lao Kitchen, in late 2024. The 500-page volume not only showcases traditional Lao recipes but also tells the story of a chef devoted to preserving her culinary heritage.

In June, the cookbook was honored at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in Lisbon, Portugal, an event often described as the Olympics of food publishing. 

Every year, the awards honor the best food and wine culture books, printed or digital, as well as food television. A Child of the Rice Fields: Recipes from Noi’s Lao Kitchen took first place for “Best Asian Cookbook”, competing against hundreds of entries from around the globe. 

The book was also named runner-up in the “Best Cookbook in the World” category and fourth in the “Food Heroes” category, which celebrates individuals who safeguard culinary traditions.

“Thank you, Noi and Mick, for this 500-page tribute to the heart and soul of Lao cuisine,” said Edouard Cointreau, President and Founder of the Gourmand Awards. 

“The world truly needed this passionate, generous, and beautifully illustrated guide that welcomes readers into Lao food with authenticity and elegance. From beloved everyday dishes to bold and adventurous recipes, your book shares Noi’s exceptional knowledge with clarity, depth, and heartfelt care. The fact that such an impressive work is self-published makes this achievement all the more extraordinary in the world of cookbooks.”

Food as Cultural Memory

Noi’s culinary philosophy was rooted in family, seasonality, and discovery. 

Many of her dishes were inspired by authentic Lao recipes passed down from her grandmother or gathered during her travels to remote Lao villages. At Doi Ka Noi, her constantly evolving menus reflected this philosophy, celebrating whatever seasonal ingredients were freshest at local markets.

She was also the first and only Lao member of the Slow Food movement, which is dedicated to preventing the disappearance of local food cultures and traditions. Noi had also been involved in projects creating nutritious recipes to help improve the health of children in Laos.

Mick told the Gourmand Awards audience in Lisbon, “I am so proud, but heartbroken she was not with me to hear the praise and adoration for our work.”

He also vowed to continue her legacy and complete two other books they had begun together, one on the ethnic foods of Northern Laos and another on the fruits, vegetables, and foraged foods found in markets in Laos. 

“We have completed more than half of the recipes for the Northern Laos book, and although finishing it without Noi will be a difficult and emotional task, I need to do it for her. Noi’s unexpected death at such an early age is a tragedy. When she passed away, a huge amount of knowledge was lost. We had so much more planned over the coming years to ensure Lao culinary culture was preserved and promoted.”

Global Recognition for Lao Cuisine

The impact of A Child of the Rice Fields continues to grow. British celebrity chef Nigella Lawson said, “It’s a big, beautiful, lovingly created book: a feast for the curious cook and a comprehensive and intimately authoritative primer on a fascinating culinary culture.”

A Child of the Rice Fields is the most comprehensive cookery book that captures the depth and diversity of Lao flavors, significantly contributing to the safeguarding of the nation’s culinary heritage. 

“Noi, through her restaurant and book, did more than anyone to promote Lao food internationally. Over the last few weeks, I have received hundreds of messages from people around the world expressing their sadness and recalling fond memories of her and dining at Doi Ka Noi. The book has been sent to countries as diverse as Australia, Poland, Switzerland, Mexico, Taiwan, Japan, and Belgium. The recognition and accolades at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards are also a huge validation of her impact. If interest in Lao food continues to grow around the world, it will be largely due to Noi. That fills me with pride, but also breaks my heart that she is not here to see how important she was,” Mick said.

Her work continues to reach new audiences worldwide. The cookbook is available for purchase in Laos through Doi Ka Noi’s Facebook page and in the US through the specialist bookshop Kitchen Arts & Letters, ensuring that Noi’s life’s work, sharing the stories and spirit of Lao cuisine, continues to reach kitchens and hearts around the world, one dish, one story, and one reader at a time.

Source: https://laotiantimes.com/2025/07/01/doi-ka-nois-final-dish-how-a-lao-chefs-cookbook-became-her-greatest-legacy/